Flip Top Tool Stand
(click photos for larger versions.)
But my shop is not very big...
Most people build stands like this to hold two tools. Like a Miter saw and a planer, or an Oscillating Spindle Sander and a grinder. Things like that. I don't have a second tool yet, but I want to build the stand so it is ready for that. For now it can serve as table space if needed.
Editorial aside: One thing that puzzled me with most of the other fliptop stands that I've come across is that people would double-up the plywood for the sides. Why? Plywood standing on edge is really, really strong. I'm sticking with just one thickness of plywood. However, I did add a narrow 1-5/8" strip on each edge. This gives more strength, and also helps remove the wiggle.
Now for the top, I did use two thicknesses of 3/4" plywood. This is for strength, mass, and to give a thick top for bolting too.
I am planning to toss two bags of sand into the base for a counterweight. When I do that, I'll put a top over the open base.
I bought a 3ft rod of 1/2" steel, and cut it down to fit. I made the groove in the two top pieces using a 1/2" roundover bit in my router. I picked up this idea from a ww'ing forum -- some plans just have a bolt from the side into the top to serve as the pivot point. That doesn't seem very robust. An axle all the way across is much stronger, I think.
Someday, maybe I need to get some clamping cauls. Ya think?
... time passes ...
As you can see, the axle is set in some hardwood -- white oak in this case -- rather than just being set into holes in the plywood. This should be stronger, and not only that, it is easily replaceable. Earlier, I cut a notch out of the top of the sides (which you can see in the previous photos) to accomodate this. A bit of wax was dabbed into each hole to help the axle spin smoothly.
These blocks are just held in place with two screws, so they're easy to replace should this not work out, or should they wear out. And it isn't easy to see, but they are intentionally a bit thicker than the sides, so that it holds the flip top away from the sides so it doesn't scrape. (They protrude about 1/16" - 3/32" on the inside)
I put three coats of flecto varathane WB on the top. First, I had it available, and second, I thought it would give it a nice protective coating. But that was too much work for the rest of the carcass. On that I wiped on , and buffed out, (wax on, wax off!) a coat of walnut oil. I happened to have a small can of it that I had picked up some months back and then decided not to use. It spread on quickly and easily, and buffed up with a satiny danish-oil feel. Gives a nice warm tone to the pale plywood.
All I really need to do now is put on some more latches to hold the top steady (only has one so far, to try out how well it holds), and then bolt the planer into place. Oh yeah, and I also need to pick up a bag of sand (or two) to toss into the bottom to give some weight to the thing. Oh, and I think I'll want to fabricate some handles for the flip top.
... More Time Passes and we're ...
This key sits in a hole in the top of the planer. So what do you think happens when you flip the planer over? Right. For now I've just left it sitting inside the base with the sand.
For anyone curious, here are the vital stats:
This is a pretty big stand. It could have been a bit smaller, if I was willing to take the dust shroud/port off of the unit each time.
...and that's all, folks!
If I were to build it again, now that I know how stable it is, I think I would try to design the base differently. It sure doesn't need the whole base for sand.
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